


Here's a few tips & tricks to get the most from your rubber stamps.
After reading this page, you will be the local expert when it comes to stamping and marking, and people will be amazed what you know and how helpful you can be.
Don't worry, we'll keep it a secret. It will be between you and T.S.T. Rubber Stamp. We won't tell anyone and you can take the full credit!
It is important to know what kind of rubber stamp you have. Below is a description of the four different kinds of rubber stamps so that you don't get confused by the terminology. Some "big box" stores call everything that doesn't use a separate ink pad a "self inking" stamp and as you will see from the descriptions, this is not the case. To make sure you get the right information, you should know the right type of stamp. Misinformation could lead to wrong instructions and could possibly ruin your stamp.
SELF INKING
A self inking rubber stamp is the one that has a removeable ink pad
built right in to the stamp. When the stamp is pressed it travels
about an inch, flipping the dieplate around to make contact with the
paper. These can be reinked and recycled. This style of
stamp, in our opinion, is the best choice for 95% of your needs.
Some brand names are Trodat, Colop, 2000 Plus, Shiny, Max Stamp and
Ideal, just to name a few.
FLASH
STAMPS
A flash stamp will be one that has a removeable cover on the bottom, and
it looks as if the dieplate is covered with a film. They travel
about 1/8" when pressed and some of them are re-inkable.
Unfortunately they are NOT recyclable. Their advantage is that
they can be made in larger sizes (up to 3-1/8" x 4-1/2"). Brand
names for these can be Max Stamp, PSI, Max Light, Ultimark, Impressor,
Accu-Stamp and others.
PRE-INKED
STAMPS
A pre-inked stamp is similar to a flash stamp in that it also only
travels about 1/8" and it is not recyclable. Your information will
look raised and the dieplate itself will be embedded with ink.
Some claim to be re-inkable but it is not easy and the end result will
be a poor imprint.
TRADITIONAL
HAND STAMPS
This is the old faithful, wooded block style stamp with the handle
sticking out. They need a separate ink pad. The advantage to
these is the variety of sizes available and that they are relatively
inexpensive. Disadvantages are that they are messier, have that
separate ink pad and are not as user friendly. They need double
the motions to make an impression.
Have You Ever Run Across Any Of These Situations?
1. Question - Why is the image or imprint
light?
The image is light simply because there is
not enough ink in the ink pad. Solution is either one of two
remedies.
First, if it is a self inking stamp, make sure that there is enough ink in the pad. They usually use a water-based ink and will slowly dry out over a period of time. Even quicker in the winter because of the dry heat. You can either re-ink the pad (using a good quality water-based ink) or simply buy another ink pad.
Second, it may be operator error that is making a poor imprint. By this we mean that if you do like what you see the tellers in the bank do (hammer the stamp on the pad like they are driving a 10" spike into rock) you are simply pushing the ink down in to the bottom of the inkpad. Think of it this way. All you want to do is transfer the ink from the pad to the paper. If you don't have enough ink on the pad, naturally you will have a light image. The proper way to do it is to gently dab the stamp a few times on a good ink pad and then "touch" the paper. Pat It, Don't Pound It!
Be sure not to "over ink" your ink pads. We suggest that you add ink to the ink pad at the end of your day. Remove it from your stamp (see our How Do I page if you don't know how) or open the case and add only enough ink to make the pad look wet across the entire surface. You don't have to soak it! Allow the pad to sit overnight if you can. This will allow the ink to spread evenly and penetrate all the way through the pad. Return it to the stamp in the morning and away you go!
2.
Question - I just re-inked the ink pad and put it back in my self inking
stamp. Why is the image missing in spots?
What has happened it that when you
took the pad out to re-ink it, you turned it around and put it back in
the opposite way. Now the hills and valleys don't line up.
Not to worry though! All you have to do is take the pad back out,
turn it 180° and put it back in again. Now everything will line up
and your imprint will be clear.
3. Question - Those catalogues and
brochures that my company gives me to hand out are terrific. The
problem is that when I try to stamp my contact information on them, it
never dries. I have to spread them out over the floor for days and
they still smear. I don't want to use labels because of the high
continual cost.
Most rubber stamp suppliers and office
supply stores don't know how to solve this problem. This is a
common dilemma, and you are not alone. There are many companies
out there who wish they could stamp their company address and phone
numbers on brochures that their suppliers give to them, but until
recently no one has had a solution. the problem you are having is
because the paper is glossy. It has a coating on it and it's like
trying to write on a piece of glass with a marker. Most regular
ink pads use a water-based ink. The ink will never be absorbed in
to the paper and will just sit on top, never drying and smearing.
To solution here is simple. In order for you to get the image of the stamp to dry, you will need a special quick drying ink and have to start with a dry ink pad. Never add quick drying ink to a regular pad. The two do not mix and you will end up with an unusable ink pad. We have specially formulated inks that are meant to be used on those shiny surfaces. The big difference is that they use an alcohol type substance instead of water for a thinner and pigments instead of dies. What this means is that, when you stamp your catalogue the alcohol part evaporates away and the pigment (colour) part dries up and sticks to the surface. And they don't rub off! Depending on the ink used the drying time can be virtually instantaneous or up to a minute.
Please note that quick drying inks need a little more T.L.C. than ordinary inks. Their high alcohol content means that they dry out sooner. You need to re-ink more often or in some cases us a liquid thinner. We also recommend that the ink pad be kept in an airtight bag (like a ziplock) when not in use. This will help prolong the life of your stamp and keep it ready for the next use. If you have a situation like this, or something similar, contact us. We can help!
4.
Question - My self inking stamp is jammed! It's stuck in the down
position or will not go down. It just doesn't want to move.
Stuck in the UP position?
This is normally a simple problem to fix. First, if the self
inking stamp will not compress, it usually means that the ink pad has
come out of place, blocking the normal travel path of the stamp when it
is pushed down. Check to make sure that the ink pad in not
protruding out one side or the other. Simply push it back in to
position so that both sides of the pad are flush with the sides of the
body of the stamp. This should fix your problem. If the pad
is in place, then you may have a bigger problem and should return it to
the place of purchase. If you bought a quality product from a
reputable company, they should warranty it.
Stuck in the down position? Again this should be a simple fix. Most self inking stamps have a button, buttons cutout tabs or some other mechanism that will lock the stamp in the compressed position. This is used by the manufacturer when mounting the die on to the machine, or for when you are changing the ink pad. Some self inking stamps will release when they are gently compressed a little bit further, while others might require you to release the button(s). Try a few different things. Try to press it further down. Look for the buttons on the side or the front and see if they can be pressed in to make them release. Shake your finger at it and tell it to let go! Make sure no one is looking at you when you do this one! Again, if nothing works, return it to the place of purchase.
A word of advice? Be sure to put a piece of paper on the desk before you start this. Some times if you just gently press down on the stamp, it will release and continue on to make an imprint. You don't want to make an imprint on something important, so cover up!
5. Question - Can special typestyles, logos
or even signatures be put on a stamp?
Absolutely! The easiest way to answer your question is to say
"anything short of a photograph or shading can be put on a stamp".
To make sure that your image can be easily used email us your file or
call us at the numbers shown at the left. We can accept most
graphic files (.cdr, .tiff, .ai, .jpeg, .bmp, .eps).
6. Question -
My hand gets sore during the day from writing the same thing over and
over again. Are there limitations to how much information can go
on a stamp?
We say NO! Our motto is ... if you write something more than 5
times a day, STAMP IT! There are almost no limits to to how much
information can be put on a stamp. We do not charge for
typesetting and DO NOT RESTRICT YOU to how many lines or how much
information you can have. Some factors to be considered though are
the available area where you will be using the stamp, the size of the
font, readability, etc. If you are not sure, contact us and we
will be glad to help you.
7. Question -
The date part
of my stamp is not printing properly but the rest of the imprint is.
Why?
Is my stamp broken?
This is
a relatively simple fix. The reason a self inking date stamp is
not printing is probably because it has come out of alignment. If
you compress the stamp in your hand and look across the bottom, you
should see that the date part and the dieplate (your info part) should
be at the same height. If the date looks recessed inside then
that's why it is not printing. To fix this, release the stamp back
to its normal position and look up inside the bottom. You should
see two small screws on either side of the mechanism. To make the
date higher (to make it even with the rest and print properly), turn the
screws clockwise (or inwards). Turn them only a little bit at a
time and be sure to turn both screws the same amount. Test the
imprint after each turn. If you went too far, you should have the
opposite problem. You'll see just the date and not the rest.
Reverse your procedure until both parts print properly. If you are
having this problem with a manual date stamp, there should be a similar
adjusting screw either under the top cap or on the side of the stamp.
Loosen the screw and move the date mechanism so the it is even with the
dieplate. Don't forget to tighten the screw once it is in
position.
8. Question -
What kind of rubber stamps can be recycled?
Only Self Inking stamps can be recycled. To make sure this is
available for your stamp, look at our descriptions above to be sure.
9. Question -
I need a new ink pad. How do I know what to ask for?
There are actually 3 ways to ask for your ink pad. If you know
what kind of stamp you have, you can go to our
replacement ink pad page and find your model number, an order
online. Secondly, you can email, call or fax us with the make,
model and colour of ink pad, and we'll make sure you get the right one.
Thirdly, and the best way, is to remove the ink pad from your stamp and
tell us the numbers that are on the back of the ink pad itself.
Then you know for sure you have the right one.
10. Question -
Does it matter what kind of ink I use to re-ink my stamp?
ABSOLUTELY! Using the wrong kind of ink can actually ruin your
stamp. A regular water-based ink will not work in a flash or
pre-inked stamp and the special inks used in flash or pre-inked stamps
will NOT work ink a self inking stamp. Even different flash stamp
brands use different inks and should not be crossed over. Make
sure that you know which ink is to be used where. If in doubt
please call us BEFORE you reink.
11. Question -
Are there difference kinds of dieplates?
Yes there are. There are "polymer" dieplates (aka synthetic
rubber) and "true rubber" dieplates. You will see both types in
use. Polymer dieplates are very common and are usually clear or
see-through looking. These dies work well with all water-based
inks. True rubber dieplates will be grey, black or red and are
created when the dies are either laser cut or molded. These are
necessary when using specialty or non-water-based inks.
12. Question -
What's the biggest stamp you can make?
BIG! The biggest self inking stamp in a regular (plastic) body is
1-1/2" x 3".
The biggest heavy duty (all metal body) self inking stamp can be as
large as 5" across x 2-1/2" high. This is the biggest stamp
available in the world.
The biggest woodmount stamp is a little harder to describe. It is possible to do a full
letter size sheet, that is 8-1/2" x 11". You would need a heck of
a big block to mount it and a huge ink pad to use it but it is possible.
(teaser)